Guest Blog: Building a Basic Wardrobe– Part I

When Princess started airing, I got a few letters like this one:

One thing I’ve noticed is that on both episodes you’ve had a guest appearance from a stylist who talked about how to build a wardrobe that will be smaller but smarter, with higher quality pieces that cost less in the long run. I really love this idea but I am quite clueless about putting it into action. Is there any chance you might consider having a stylist do a guest series on your blog about building a wardrobe.

Here is said gorgeous and talented stylist, Afiya Francisco, with some ideas for you.

How many of us have looked into a jammed-packed closet only to complain, “I have nothing to wear!” While the statement may not literally be true (most of us have plenty to wear, we just don’t want to wear it), I totally understand the sentiment.

No matter how much we have, a collection of mismatched clothes does leave us with limited options and that why it’s important– starting now– to shop strategically. But first, set aside a couple of hours to really go through your wardrobe and organize everything (I mean everything) into three piles: keep, store and donate.

Let’s start with the last pile: donate. If you haven’t worn it in over a year, it doesn’t fit or it really doesn’t suit anything in your closet, pass it on to someone who can use it. Seriously. No matter how beautiful the item is, if you’re not wearing it, it’s just taking up valuable closet real estate. There are a few exceptions (okay your wedding dress and other sentimental pieces can stay, but limit yourself to three of these items max.)

Items to store belong somewhere other than your closet. Keep out-of-season clothing in a plastic storage bin or vacuum bags and be sure to clean all clothes before you store them away.

So what do we get to keep? Easy. The pieces that make you feel your best while wearing them. The shirt that makes your eyes pop or your skin glow or shows off your beautiful collarbone (or whatever your favourite feature may be). There should be no clothes hanging in your closet that you don’t love or at the very least really like. Scale your clothes from 1-10 and ditch anything not deemed a nine or ten. Believe me, you’ll be happy that you did.

I realize this may leave you with very few actual pieces. But I can pretty much guarantee that you’ll be in no worse shape than where you began. In fact, while you may have fewer physical pieces, you’ll wind up with more options that you’ll actual wear, and look good doing it.

I admit there will probably be holes to fill. But before you head out shopping for more stuff, just to wind up back where you were, look out for my next post. There I will share exactly what you should look for to get the most mileage from your wardrobe.

Tomorrow: Building a Basic Wardrobe– Part II

45 Responses to “Guest Blog: Building a Basic Wardrobe– Part I”

  1. Funny, I just did that this past weekend. Donated a lot of clothes I never wore and some still had the tags on them…..Yikes!

  2. Now I can’t wait to read Part II

  3. I’m looking forward to Part 2. I could certainly use some help in the fashion area.

  4. My sister asked me for help in doing this to her closet. It helped her to have me frown and say “toss it” when she said “I never wear it but… (belonged to great grand aunt, wore once for a fun party)” To make it even easier, I took all the donation stuff with me when I left so she couldn’t sneak it back into her closet.

    A few days later she called me and said “it’s great, now when I open my closet I only have nice things to wear. It saves time.”

    I’m not kidding about the belonged to great grand aunt.

  5. Sadly, I don’t have all that many clothes to begin with – I have plenty of weekend/workout clothes, but not as many work clothes – and of the work clothes … well, nothing is particularly amazing. In the morning, I just pull out a shirt and put it on. I only have three pairs of pants that fit, and they go with all my shirts, so it really makes no difference. I never look amazing, but I don’t aim to go to work to show off my clothes – I aim to simply do my job.

    I have an aversion to spending a lot of money on clothes, so I would love ideas of “must have” pieces for a good wardrobe, and as I need new clothes, start building from there.

  6. So looking forward to this series!! I am on a weight loss program, and I will need to buy new clothes, so this is going to be very worthwhile reading.

  7. Haha -Emma I have exactly the opposite problem..I maintain my work clothes and have a good number of these wardrobe pieces. But clothes to hang out in? go to a party? Do stuff with the family? Nope. I have no problem buying clothes for work – I almost consider it a career tool – but I can’t seem to buy myself nice (or any) stuff for me.

    I need my sisters’ help when it comes to purchasing clothes for everyday.

  8. I had already put this task on my “to do” list when I’m on vacation a week in February… great minds! Thank you for the extra little tidbits of info; looking forward to tomorrow’s Part II!!

  9. I have very little in my closet at the moment but I notice that have a lot of the same type of top – polyester and elastine, rayon and spandex – so stretchy ones that don’t need ironing. I don’t look good in most pants, so I have three of the same kind in different colours (grey, black and brown). I have one skirt and a suit jacket which I hardly ever wear (interviews), especially since they need dry-cleaning $$. I’m basically bored with what I have and have difficulty figuring out combinations that will last the whole 5-day work week. Work is a casual business environment. I’m looking forward to your next blog.

  10. When I made the drastic job change from bank administrator to tractor-trailer driver, my wardrobe had to make a huge shift as well.

    What were ‘bank’ clothes became casual clothes, as the casual clothes became ‘trucking’ clothes.

    Now I have three different sets of clothes.

  11. This post is very timely for me. I am a recent university grad, beginning to teach high school. I’ve been thinking a lot about how to build a professional wardrobe that is comfortable, appropriate, and feels like “me.” It’s harder than I thought. I feel like I end up looking overly conservative and boring, or too “young.” I’m looking forward to your suggestions!

  12. God I’m glad I was born a man and don’t have to deal with this…. :)

  13. I can totally relate to this post, when I was young I had no problem buying a mixture of clothes from vintage (aka value village, sally ann), and nice stores. As I move into my mid-late 30s I am constantly worried about dressing too young and end up buying things that are either too young/too old. I love fashion magazines but even the ones with a ’style through the ages’ section seem to be out of touch with what people are really wearing in their 30s, 40s, 50s (unless perhaps you are in southern california & everyone looks like a model).

    Geoff I disagree that this does not apply to men – I see a lot of men every day that could really use a wardrobe makeover. I’m sure they don’t have closets packed full of clothes but they could still throw away those old threadbare shirts, 80s jeans, ratty t-shirts…and replace with a couple of really nice good quality items.

  14. Great timing. I am in the process of loosing some extra weight and i would love to clear out my closet of the old stuff. I don’t tend to hold onto clothes I don’t wear but I also don’t really know how to shop for my body type. I love it on the rack but not when I put it on then I buy it anyways hoping I will magically change form and it’ll work. Really looking forwards to the rest. Geoff… You have no idea LOL.

  15. @ Karen – I don’t doubt what you’re saying about shabby looking men. What I meant was, they don’t care……

  16. I regularly go through my closet for donations as I tell myself I can’t have anything new unless I get rid of some things. I really like having empty space on the shelves, nothing on the floor and space between hangers. I am guilty of keeping a few things I seldom wear but there are occasions that don’t come up too often ,like funerals or other formal events, for which a certain type of outfit is required and it’s nice to be prepared.
    Looking forward to part two.

  17. I’m glad this series is here. I’m not fashion obsessed, but I’ve learned to like the challenge of finding stuff that fits my slightly awkward frame and still reflects who I am. I know it’s not as ‘in’ as it used to be, but I really learned a lot from episodes of ‘what not to wear’. I think a lot of people wander around thinking “oh, it’s because I don’t care about how I look” the same way a lot of people wander around thinking “i can’t be bothered to learn about my finances” – as soon as you realize that it’s about doing things for yourself and not about doing things for others, it can become extremely rewarding and good for your self-esteem.

    @Marta and Karen, I struggle with finding that balance as well – when you’re young, being fashionable can come across as being immature. I generally like to mix trendy pieces with more conservative ones (wearing cardigans over interesting tshirts or tank tops, wearing bright shoes with pants and a simple sweater, wearing bright accessories, etc) to strike a balance. My mom (in her 60s) often buys cute, bright vneck sweaters and layers a turtleneck under them to be more in keeping with her style.

  18. I can’t wait for tomorrow. I hate shopping for clothes, and I am not ever sure if what I buy is any good. I do need good stuff for work, and I will use this list. I don’t mind throwaway stuff for home (ie Old Navy) but I have to ramp it up at work.

  19. I love the web article (can’t remember where I read it) where the writer posted the results of her experiment. She put all of her clothes in a spare closet in the house. The only clothes that were allowed to go back to her own closet were the ones she had worn and washed. At the end of the year, the clothes that were still hanging in the spare closet had to go to charity. She was shocked at the amount she had to give away. The clothes she wore all the time were the ones that had made it back to her own closet. From there, she was able to see where the real gaps were and was able to build a REAL wardrobe from that.

  20. I pared down my closet 4 years ago and love it. There is nothing there I don’t wear. When an item starts to lose it’s shape or fades then I replace it. I don’t add to my wardrobe I get rid of the item I’m replacing. I actually have far less clothes than my husband! :)

    @ Jessie, I like your idea of mixing trendy with conservative. Probably cause that’s what I do too!

  21. I recently did something similar: I left my laundry undone for about a week and a half (more because life was CRAZY than because I planned it). At the end of that time, when I was going “ugh, there is NOTHING I want to wear in these drawers,” I decided to just get rid of all that stuff left in there. I kept some summer tanks and shorts that I do wear but that hadn’t been winnowed out, but everything else I donated or pitched. If you wanted to be really organized, you could PLAN to do this twice a year, once for the hotter months and once for the colder months.

    I do still need to tackle my closet (I keep most of the everyday wear in my drawers, my closet holds the once-in-a-while items, so the laundry trick doesn’t so much work there). But it really is nice opening my drawers to nothing but clothes I want to wear. I haven’t bought more than one shirt since then, either!

  22. Thanks for this! I’m returning to work post-maternity leave in about 8 weeks, and I really need to rebuild my wardrobe. Nothing changes the shape of your body quite like having a baby. Fortunately, I included this as an expected cost in my maternity leave budget, so I have a bit of money available to buy some key / classic pieces for my work wardrobe.

  23. ~Stephanie Says:
    January 25, 2011 at 1:19 pm

    I would like a list of the “zero-waste family”’s wardrobe. They have only second hand clothes they buy twice a year ans specofcs like 7 tops, 3 pants etc… I always end up with a million jackets or socks but no outfits for casual.
    Very excitedf I had to throw away 3 pants because I lost weight and they were raggedy anways.
    My fav. wardrobe addition last year was a beige cardigan/jacket from vv for $8. Obviously it was a lean clothes buying year because we are listening yo you Gail and paying our debt off.

  24. ~Stephanie Says:
    January 25, 2011 at 1:25 pm

    Sorry for all the spelling mistakes. I was holding a crying baby!
    Our debt update is – almost 13 months down and we are on track with around $56,000 debt starting down to around $35,000 now. Debt free in 23 months or less (hopefully less ;) )
    Thank you Gail!

  25. Consider finding a local clothing consignment shop or “E-Bay” or something similar. Money you make off your discarded clothes can go towards a new wardrobe.

  26. I’m excited for part 2!

  27. THANK YOU, GAIL! I am one of the sorry ones in desperate need of wardrobe direction, so this series will be a great help. Since I’ve started thinking differently about my wardrobe (thanks to Princess & Gail’s blog) I am definitely making better choices. I borrowed the book “Color Me Beautiful” from the library (someone’s recommendation on here) and it had some helpful tips on building a wardrobe with classic style. I also got some good tips from the book “Living the Simple Life” (also a recommendation from someone on here), and I am making more conscious decisions. I was more careful about my most recent work pants purchase, making sure I bought something that really flattered, knowing that I would be wearing them for the next few years. I am also trying out the suggestion of limiting the colours in my wardrobe to just a few- that way everything should coordinate. It’s a challenge, but setting limits will hopefully mean that things will coordinate better. All in all, I think I am developing a style that I can live with!

    @Gail, I also wanted to mention that I am reading the book “The Paradox of Choice: Why More is Less” after seeing a video by the author that you posted on Twitter. Thank you for introducing me to it, what an amazing, eye-opening book! It talks about how living in a consumerist society with unlimited choice makes us less happy, and explains all the reasons for it. It is interesting to know that self-imposed limits can make us happier- including living on a budget. Great book, I recommend it to everyone!

  28. After many years of wearing things that followed trends, or that I’d admired on other people, I realized that I look far better in what suits me regardless of what’s officially the latest trend. That goes for not only styles but colours.

    I know it was considered kind of nutty by some, but many years ago I “had my colours done”. Remember that? Boy was that an eye opener. I finally understood why I didn’t love something nearly as much on me as when I saw it on someone else. It was a flattering style for me and the size was right, so why didn’t I love it after all? Of course it wasn’t great on me, it was the wrong colour for me but exactly right on the other person. It also confirmed why I loved some items long after they’d become dated – they were great colours on me and made me look fabulous.

    Now I stick to the basics for the main pieces buying almost exclusively black and grey pants and skirts. Three days a week I wear a black bottom and top and add a bright jacket, cardigan or wrap. Keeping to a simple “uniform” reduces the number of shoes and purses required and everything goes with everything else. I replace items with a similar one as they wear out and once in a while if a new colour (that suits me) becomes popular I might pick up a scarf or wrap. When the fade passes or I’m just tired of it, I can donate that one inexpensive item and pick something else. I buy only silver jewlery, only black shoes, and have one black purse I use for everything but formal occasions. When everything is built off either a black or grey base with white and jewel tones added for colour, it sure reduces the volume of stuff in your closet. Same process can work for someone with different colouring – just build off of cream, tan and brown.

    Just because you love a colour doesn’t mean you have to wear it. Instead get underwear in that colour, or your next writing journal, or a candle. It may look great on the manequin or your best friend, but if it doesn’t suit you it will soon find it’s way to the back of the closet through no fault of it’s own.

  29. So many of you have given some really good tips! I’m mid 30’s and also make an effort to look Great without looking too “young” or feeling too “old”.

    My 3 best tips:
    - I HATE jackets… but a vest, cardigan, wrap or even scarf can also really dress up an otherwise eclectic or fun-loving piece.
    - along the same line, create focal point. Wear 1 thing that really pops, and then go basic (or more traditional) for the rest of the outfit.
    - Jewellery and shoes! A slightly more subtle way of expressing personality when a whole outfit would be “too much”.

    So how does this help streamline a wardrobe? (back to topic) Basic matching pieces…accessories make a difference with style, level of formality, and personality.

  30. I liked the book “Dress your best : the complete guide to finding the style that’s right for your body” by Clinton Kelly and Stacy London of the American “What Not to Wear” show. Has body types for men too.

  31. As my work section is casual wear. My clothes compromises mostly of jeans, t-shirts and sweatshirts. I have dress pants, blouses and sweaters, but wear those when I go out with friends. I have classic coloured pants: black, blue, grey. One black blazer. And my colour comes from my tops and shoes. I have plenty of summer dresses and capris too. All my clothes fit in 1 small closet and 2 dressers. I even have 2 walk in closets, and have my clothes in only 1! my travel bags and luggage are in the other one.

  32. My biggest challenge is building a summer wardrobe… finding that right mix that keeps you cool without trying to show off more than is appropriate for a 40 year old is a balance that I find hard to obtain, because I also don’t want to look too prim or proper either… plus, I’m off work during the summer months, and I don’t want too “dressy” cause sometimes I don’t see ANYONE for days at a time, but I don’t want to be in rags either, because that’ll be the day that EVERYONE decided to stop in!
    I really need to expand my winter wardrobe by just one more pair of pants in brown or grey. But, for the most part, I don’t have “out of season” clothing, other than the obvious shorts in winter, and wool sweaters in summer. Most of my clothes are year round wear, whether they be layering pieces or just neutral coloured pants that are of a weight that can be worn year round (with leotards under on those especially cold days).

  33. 4 Years ago I vacationed for 3 weeks and had to bring formal wear and play wear. I really had to plan out my clothing selections. I had one suitcase, and all the clothes I brought were basic, but could be dressed up with jewllery, or great flats. I brought 3 pair of shoes as well. It worked out so well that when I returned home I got ride of anything that didn’t work well with at least 3 other items. I figured if I could do it for 3 weeks and it worked great, I just needed to purge and buy a few more basics that would have some “WOW” factor. I now shop when there are really good sales and treat myself to the one Item I must have. I really look forward to getting more tips through your stylist.

  34. Before I get started on my wardrobe solution…. WHY do people feel compelled to keep their wedding dresses?! Expensive to store, you’ll never wear it again (hopefully) and sorry to break it to you but I don’t think your daughter is going to want to wear it when it’s her turn to walk down the aisle. The way I saw it, I paid good money for professional photography so I’d remember my day as the center of attention in a pretty pearly dress…. then I sold the fancy frock and it more than paid for the photographer! I happily got rid of the dress, and kept the memories — and the husband too! (PS we married 16 years ago without going into any debt).

    On to the closet: I find most of the time I do have a “uniform” of sorts. A style of shirt I feel comfortable and confident in, and pants that go with almost all the tops. I have ways of dressing these things up (scarf, blazer, good slacks, nice shoes) or dressing down (yoga pants, flipflops) but most days of the week I just have to chose what colour and sleeve length I feel like today, a pair of jeans and sensible shoes…. it sure makes getting dressed WAAAAY easier!

    There are the “special event” outfits too, but I don’t have many of them, and I try to keep them as all-seasoned as possible with layering. And the outfits that are more adventurous, but they never last more than a couple years in my closet, they always get donated when I come to my senses.

  35. @*pol I totally agree I sold my wedding dress within a couple months of my wedding. It’s much harder for me to sell a ten yr old pair of shoes I haven’t worn in 8 years, what’s up with that??

  36. oh this is one of my favourite topics. I can’t wait for part 2! Being on a significant weight loss journey, I am currently purchasing my third wardrobe in the past year. Although I know you aren’t supposed to be always checking for sales, this time of year you can get incredible ones at some high quality websites, Bean, Talbots etc. You just have to be fairly confident in sizing.

    I think I have built a pretty amazing wardrobe for the next few months that would do Clinton and Stacey proud. Focused on basics, in coordinating colors, and luxurious fabrics. I added it up, and for less than 500 dollars, I have built about 20 outfits that will get me through to end of year. That’s including shipping. This includes coats as well! and jeans! and exercise and work wear, I added it up, and the original prices on the items I purchased topped 4000 dollars! I just signed up for sale notification for a couple of stores, made a list, and all together, because I did it online, think I spent less time than two trips to a mall on a Saturday.

    The big bonus is that when you order even drastically reduced clothing online it isn;t shop worn because it hasn;t been thumbed through like the in-store sale racks. Comes perfectly wrapped and pressed, I was even able to get accessories for my 500 dollars including a pashmina in cashmere that originally sold for over 100 dollars alone. I think starting with a couple of stores where you feel the clothes reflect you and your style that you know have very predictable sales is a good start.

    It’s just so great no to be a slave to Penningtons anymore!

  37. [...] Guest Post: Building a Basic Wardrobe Part 1 @ Gail vaz Oxlade — excellent post that outlines essentially what I’m trying to do with my own closet: keep a small collection, make it only what you love & makes you feel great. [...]

  38. I could have used that last year, when I had to re-buy the whole wardrobe, and didn’t know what would fit my new shape, who I wanted to be, exactly, *and* had to fight the 25 years ingrained rule of “if it fits and looks OK, buy it, who knows when the next one will come along”.

    I have stored one big box of my favourite and hard-to-replace size 20 clothes. Just in case.

  39. *pol – I was married 10 years ago and while I still have my dress – it was a 2nd hand dress purchased at a consignment type store for about 200.00. I have 2 girls but I don’t think that they will actually wear it someday – well, maybe for dress up :) My sister has just become engaged and doing some looking on line for plus size brides dresses I came across a bridal shop that RENTS the dresses – just like they do for men’s tuxedo’s!! It’s a fabulous idea and one that I am going to share with my sister and hopefully it is a reasonable rate – she really doesn’t have the storage space to store it and it would likely end up in my closest beside my dress :)

  40. [...] Building a Basic Wardrobe Part 1, Part 2 [...]

  41. [...] asked Afiya to do some posts for the site and she agreed to do three. Here are part 1 and part 2 if you want to catch up. And today, I have for you the final installment from gorgeous [...]

  42. [...] Here’s a few tips if you are contemplating the “less is more” mentality: Building a Basic Wardrobe Part One and Part [...]

  43. Great post! I think it’s important to invest in some really good quality pieces like a classic LBD and a good leather handbag. These things will always look stylish, and if the quality is right they will last forever! Trends are passing, so it’s important to get some key pieces for your wardrobe that you can match with more fashionable bits. Thanks for the post!

  44. [...] to various websites that have all apparently cheated from each other on the exam of Closet Cleaning 101*, success in the Great [...]

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