Buying Life Insurance – Do’s and Don’ts

Glenn Cooke offered to do a series of blogs on life insurance. This is one of those areas of personal finance that people most misunderstand, and I jumped at the opportunity to have an insurance specialist give y’all the lowdown. So here is Part 3 of Glenn’s 3 part blog.

You know how much life insurance you need. You know what type of insurance you need. Now we need to figure out what policy and company is best for us, while doing so at the lowest premium. Here’s some do’s and don’ts as part of that process:

Do’s:

  • Do use a broker that shops many companies. Individual brokers and agents don’t set the rates, the insurance companies do. What a broker brings to the table isn’t the ability to get you better rates from a specific company, it’s the ability to get you the least expensive company by shopping widely.
  • Do take your medical exam first thing in the morning before you exercise or have anything to eat or drink. Your blood pressure is generally low in the mornings. And by waiting to eat until after the blood test you don’t force the underwriter to figure out if the floaters in your blood are some horrible wasting disease or just the greasy McBreakfastburger you just ate.
  • Do make sure your term policy is convertible (to permanent). This ‘conversion’ feature in many term policies guarantees you the right to trade in your term policy and get a permanent life insurance policy, at healthy rates – with no medical exam. If you bought term insurance and later become uninsurable, conversion means you can still switch to permanent insurance and get it at healthy rates without any medical questions. It’s like locking in your health status. It’s also a vital fallback if you buy term insurance and later become uninsurable. Converting to permanent insurance (and at healthy rates too!) means you won’t lose your coverage as the result of your term policy expiring.
  • Do assume your health is regular if you are in fact in good health, and even if you think your health is better than regular. Insurance companies offer ‘regular’ health class premiums, and then they have some super-elite yet only slightly lower premiums they call ‘preferred’. Unfortunately few people actually qualify for those preferred rates. Worse, your general health and fitness level isn’t always a very good indicator of whether you’ll get those better rates. If you’re in good health and assume when you apply that you’ll get the ‘regular’ healthy rates you’ll almost always be correct. If you’re wrong and you qualify for the better rates, the company will give them to you automatically anyway. However if you assume that you’ll qualify for the super-elite preferred health class, chances are that you won’t actually get them and when the policy is issued you’ll be facing higher premiums than you’d planned for. So when you’re running quotes, run them with your health class set to ‘regular’.

Don’ts:

  • Don’t buy less life insurance to make it cheaper! Instead, buy a policy with a shorter term. When people find premiums unaffordable the tendency is to buy less life insurance. The downside of approach is that if you die, your beneficiaries don’t get enough life insurance. You’ve deliberately planned to not leave enough behind. If however you need a 30 year term and instead buy a 20 year term you’ll be covered properly for 20 years (the same is true if you need permanent insurance but purchase term to lower your premiums). The downside of this approach is that you have to do something in 20 years – buy a new policy if you’re healthy or use conversion if you’re not healthy. And because you’ll be older then, premiums will be higher. Effectively you’re deferring higher premiums until later (though realistically, we hope that you’ll be better able to pay those higher premiums later anyway). The downside of buying the wrong term (deferring higher premiums until later) is better than the downside of buying the wrong amount (if you die, your beneficiaries don’t get enough money).
  • Don’t worry about ‘renewability’ on term policies. Instead make sure that your initial term is as long as you think you’ll need the insurance for without having to renew. Renewals used to make sense on term insurance. You could buy a 5 year term policy and just automatically renew it every 5 years at great rates. Those were the good old days. Today’s term policies have crazy high renewal premiums. Making sure you have a term that’s long enough so that when your renewal comes about (at the end of the term), you’re expecting to cancel the policy anyway.
  • Don’t withhold information during the medical questionnaire/application. Instead, be verbose. Bore them to tears with the level of detail in your answers. Firstly misinformation or withholding information is one of the few ways that an insurance company could potentially deny a life insurance claim. And secondly by being verbose you give the underwriter the ability to make a firm decision on the best possible rates they can give you. If they’re teetering on the edge of better or worse rates, don’t leave them having to err on the side of caution. Leave them thinking ‘no problem with the better rates. I’ve got this client down cold’.
  • Don’t mix life insurance and investments. Buy insurance because you need a specific amount of money when you die. Lose sight of that goal and you run the risk of buying either the wrong type or wrong amount of insurance. Yes there are some instances where life insurance policies can seem attractive as an investment. Most of the time those investments are not guaranteed and can go very, very wrong. And most of the time you’ll actually have better investment options like paying down your debt!
  • Don’t worry about company size. Size. Doesn’t. Matter. Neither you nor I can tell if a company, large or small, is going to be in business 20 years from now, and current size is no indication of whether they will be or not. In addition, the life insurance companies have minimum guarantees should a company fail. These guarantees are detailed further at the industry association’s website Assuris.
  • Don’t smoke! As a former pack a day’er myself, I don’t have any thing to say about smoking as part of your lifestyle – smoke or not, it’s up to you. But I have plenty to say about smoking as a financial choice. It’ll double your premiums. (and I can only imagine what Gail’s take is on spending budget money on cigarettes 🙂 ). Conversely, quitting smoking will probably cut your life insurance premiums in half. Insurance companies will consider you for nonsmoking rates after you’ve been free for 1 full year. That doesn’t mean you should defer your life insurance purchase for a year – that’s another don’t! Buy it now. Just buy a shorter term (rather than locking in smoker rates for a longer period) then get started quitting today. Once you’ve quit smoking for a year, then reapply at nonsmoker rates and get the proper term.

Now you’re still wondering, how much is all this actually going to cost? Well, let’s put some numbers to this. Below is a life insurance quote form with live quoting capability. This is the same software that many brokers and insurance companies use inhouse, it’s the same software I use if you call my office for a quote. Armed with competitive pricing information ensures that you’ll have a good idea of how much you should expect to pay when it comes time for you to finalize your purchase.

Glenn Cooke is an independent life insurance broker and president of Life Insurance Canada He can be reached at (866) 662-5433.

Life Insurance Quotes




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68 Responses to “Buying Life Insurance – Do’s and Don’ts”

  1. […] Visit link: Buying Life Insurance – Do's and Don'ts « gailvazoxlade.com […]

  2. Why, if one of your don’t is to not mix Insurance and investments, do so many insurance sales people try to pawn off insurance as an investment?

    I personally never consider my insurance as an investment.

    regards,

    Jason

  3. […] Buying Life Insurance – Do's and Don'ts « gailvazoxlade.com […]

  4. […] Buying Life Insurance – Do's and Don'ts « gailvazoxlade.com […]

  5. What a helpful series-I especially love your quoting tool-so interesting.

  6. This was a great series. I particularly loved yesterday’s post – finally feel like I understand the different types of insurance!

    I have a question/concern about 30 year term vs continually renewing a 5 year term. Although there would be upward pressure on premiums as you age due to age, would this not be somewhat countered by the need for a smaller and smaller death benefit? I’m by no means an expert, but it sounds wasteful to lock in the death benefit that I would need if I died today for the next 30 years.

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  8. @ Jason – I find the term ‘investment’ thrown around a lot. Ie “I keep a lot of frozen food in the fridge, but its an investment” etc. It’s because investment sounds better than expense; for instance a new fridge isn’t a purchase, its an investment.. no people no!

    @ Glenn – re : “The downside of this approach is that you have to do something in 20 years – buy a new policy if you’re healthy or use conversion if you’re not healthy. And because you’ll be older then, premiums will be higher.”

    Depending on your age when you start, you may not need life insurance after that 20. I got life insurance at 30, bought a house at 30 and had my son at 32. In 20 years, hopefully the house will be paid off and my son’s education saved and paid for (70% of it anyway). So why do people need life insurance once the expenses are done?

  9. Great articles on Insurance, found the calculators really helpful. I am on holidays starting today for a week and one of my “to-dos” is to get proper life insurance set up for my husband and myself, so prefect timing!
    I was wondering though.. I went on the Insurecan website and went to fill in my information on the calculator on the site and it didn’t have by year of birth (1986) available.. is this just because not many people under 25 look for insurance?? just thought it was odd..

  10. […] Buying Life Insurance – Do's and Don'ts « gailvazoxlade.com […]

  11. 1) Renewing a 5 year term every 5 years vs. locking in a 30 year term: The renewal in year 6 will be crazy high. Premiums for the first term (5 years or 30 years) is done using a mortality table for ‘people who just took a medical exam and have proven their good health’. So rates are cheap. At renewal (year 6 or year 30) the premiums going forward are calculated using a different and much higher mortality table – one that assumes ‘it’s been 5 years since we’ve seen your health credentials, and you might have become unhealthy since then’.

    A 35 year old who buys a new $500K of 5 year term, premium is $32/month. A 35 year old who bought a 5 year term at age 30 and is now renewing it? Premium is $77. So lock in the better mortality table for as long as you want the insurance AND avoid the necessity of proving your health every 5 years – which can become problematic as you age.

    2) Need for life insurance when you’re older. I wasn’t suggesting that you need life insurance when you’re older. I was suggesting that you decide for yourself if you need life insurance when you’re older. It’s an important distinction.

    People in their child rearing and mortgage years who are protecting income will mostly tell you the answer is that they don’t need insurance when they’re older. Give them 25 years, and their attitude changes to ‘yes, I do want some amount of life insurance’. I don’t attempt to convince people they will feel this way – just be aware that a lot of people do change their attitudes. You may too. Or you may not.

    I’m married, house, kids, dog, the whole thing. By all accounts, I should have term. However, I personally feel that I want to leave an estate for my children, and an inexpensive way to do that is through permanent insurance (and that in fact is my personal approach – for me). You may be in the identical situation and believe that your financial obligations to your children end when they leave home, or at least when you hit retirement age. If that’s the case, I’m going to tell you to get term. I’m not going to tell you that you need to leave a legacy behind, even if that’s what’s right for me.

    There’s other factors. People who buy permanent insurance when they’re younger and still have the policy when they’re older? They love those old policies they bought when they were young and insurance was inexpensive. But these are emotional factors and I’ve limited the articles to relatively financial factors.

    Two further points surrounding this. First, as I noted above, conversion to permanent is *vital*. So when you change your mind in 20-30 years and want permanent insurance – but can’t get it for some medical reason – well, yes, you can still get it using the conversion feature.

    Secondly, let’s say you want $1,000,000 of insurance for the next 20 years, then $100,000 for the rest of your life, you can buy a layer cake policy. The first layer is $100,000 of permanent insurance (so you lock in the rates for the rest of your life for that layer) and you top it up with a second layer of $900,000 of term insurance. Your premiums for the first 20 years is the 100K permanent + $900K term and you’ve got a total of $1,000,000 of coverage. After 20 years you drop both the coverage and the premium for the term insurance, and you’re left with the $100,000 layer of permanent insurance, at rates you set 20 years ago.

    This is why in the last article I suggested that while the available types of insurance are clear, the actual application of those types is much more subjective. But now you’re educated on the subject and are able to make an educated decision that’s right for you. In the end, most people that I work with that fit the profile of the articles end up with term insurance, then convert a smaller amount when they get older.

    3) my website quoting 1986f for birthdate. Tha’s a bit of an embarrassing question :). When I put the calculator up on my site, that date was for an 18 year old. I haven’t updated the birth years, well, I guess in about 6 years. It’s on my todo list (and has been for about 6 years). But the quotes that are right here on Gail’s site does quote for an 18 year old and includes the same companies and rates that are on my site – you can get all the quotes you need right from the blog post above. If you’re not seeing quotes, first try changing one of the inputs (it updates quotes on the fly) and if that doesn’t work, try clearing your cookies.

  12. This is a great series, thank-you so much for posting these! I was just discussing with my boyfriend the need for insurance after we get engaged and buy a home and these articles have been really helpful!

  13. Thank you very much Glenn Cooke!

    Christine

  14. Thanks for this great series, I loved today’s tool the most since I can use it to convince my husband that this is affordable.

  15. Glenn,

    I just had an idea to solve the problem that I had posed about longer terms vs 5 year renewals and having a larger, unnecessary death benefit as I age. The solution is simply to buy several different term policies today!

    Let’s say you’re 30 and you would need $600,000 if you died today. Rather than buy a 30 year term for $600,000, you could buy 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, and 30 year terms, each for $100,000. This would gradually decrease my death benefit without having to renew!

  16. […] the original:  Buying Life Insurance – Do's and Don'ts « gailvazoxlade.com By admin | category: exam insurance medical no | tags: actuaries, are-known, […]

  17. Jay,

    Accountants and actuaries always come up with your suggestion :). And they’re right, your point is valid.

    You’re assuming you need less life insurance on a relatively straight downward slope. Inflation will offset this (you need more insurance over the years due to inflation) though it won’t offset the declining need completely.

    Most people don’t sweat this and lock in the entire amount for the full term. It’s simple, and you’ll find it has less impact on premiums than you might expect.

    However, if you do want to layer different kinds of term – and you can do this – you would typically just go with a 10 and a 20 year term (maybe 30). That’s not an insurance principle, it’s marketplace conditions. 10 and 20 year term have some heavy downward pressure on the premiums, making them competitively priced. It’s not uncommon to see 10 year term as cheap as 5 year term. So layering 10 and 20 year term is a good pricing structure. Throwing 5 year term and 25 year term in there likely won’t make sense once you look at the premiums.

  18. Great series – most helpful in taking away the smoke and mirrors and giving us the straight goods on life insurance.

    8 more yrs left on our term life with reasonable rates. That’ll take us through to when we retire – then we’ll downsize.

    We also just bought permanent insurance which after 20 yrs is paid for in full and we never have to contribute anything after that and still are covered for $50K. Even though after we retire we hope to have cleared all our debts – mortgage included – the $50K we’ll get, should me or my husband pass away – covers funeral costs and gives our kids – or my spouse (or moi) enough $ to have a big celebration of the deceased’s life + go on a cruise – or some other wild and wonderful way to enjoy life. We figured we could have tucked the monthly payments into a savings account or high investments – total payments = $42K – but we also like the comfort of knowing we get the $50K in case of death.

  19. This is a great article. The information was invaluable, though I wish the calculator was US as well.

    Any suggestions on how to find a broker? Is it best to stay away from Big Firms like State Farm, etc..

  20. Wow those rates are almost double what I pay for my 150K policy. Maybe buying insurance through the Alumni program was a wise decision.

  21. […] Buying Life Insurance – Do's and Don'ts « gailvazoxlade.com […]

  22. […] more here:  Buying Life Insurance – Do's and Don'ts « gailvazoxlade.com By admin | category: decreasing insurance life term | tags: beneficiaries, clear-bill, […]

  23. […] Glenn Cooke offered to do a series of blogs on life insurance. This is one of those areas of personal finance that people most misunderstand, and I jumped at the opportunity to have an insurance specialist give y’all the lowdown. … YEpw 26Read More… […]

  24. […] Buying Life Insurance – D&#959’s &#1072&#1495&#1281 Don’ts « gailvazoxlade.c… […]

  25. My husband has been tested for potentially being bipolar and is currently being treated and on medication for ADHD. He has bouts of depression as well and is seeking treatment. I have just assumed that it’s not worthwhile for him to get life insurance since no one will be willing to take on his risk.

    What types of exclusions and pre-existing conditions are there on life insurance policies?

    Isn’t it just more financially worthwhile for me to save money rather than pay premiums only to have the policy not pay out later?

  26. Also, in the applications for life insurance, do they ask if you’ve been rejected for insurance before? How does that affect a quote?

  27. Hi Glenn,

    I am single, 42 years young, and have no kids. In 2003, I took out a $100K universal life policy with Industrial Alliance with a monthly premium of $60, payable for 20 yrs and with my mother and married sister as beneficiaries. Should I continue with this policy? If not, what should I get? I currently earn $46k/yr and have a mortgage. I have a 2x earnings life and accident insurance policy with my employer. I also have a $50K critical illness policy with AIG/BMO since 2004 with a $49/mo premium. Do I have enough coverage and can you tell me if it’s better to move to other insurance firms?

    Thanks,
    Liz

  28. Gina,
    maybe, maybe not. It’s easy enough for a broker to send a preliminary request email to a bunch of companies to see if any of them would consider an offer, and if so, at what general price range. The situation you’ve described encompasses a range from declines to regular rates, no way to know without asking the companies.

    A decline on regular life insurance, when seeking other regular life insurance, doesn’t mean anything other than the insurance company will review what happened previously. However, on some of the no-medical exam policies they do ask if you’ve been declined and if so you may be ineligible. If you suspect you’ll be declined, get the no medical exam policy in place first (have you been declined? Nope!), then apply for a fully underwritten policy – if you get a better policy that way cancel the no-medical exam policy, and if you get declined, the no medical exam policy can’t be clawed back.

    Liz:
    Three general comments.
    1) Check you’re UL policy for the cost of insurance. If it is ‘yrt’, yearly renewable term, or annually increasing, or something like that, these are dangerous policies and I recommend an immediate review and probably replacement. If the policy has insurance costs that are ‘guaranteed level’ then I’ve no underlying issue with that type of insurance. Remember though, the insurance costs are not the same as your premiums! Your premiums might be level and the insurance costs not level. Check your policy wording to find out.
    2) In terms of how much insurance you need, it’s a matter of how much you either want or need to leave behind if you die. Financial dependents are the biggest reason to buy life insurance – sounds like you don’t have that. Tax reasons can be another. Or you may want to clean up debts and leave a bit of an estate. If that’s the case, then your estimate of how much insurance you ‘want’ to leave behind is as valid as any professional opinion.
    3) there’s four ways we can lose our income. We can die (that’s life insurance). We can become disabled (disability insurance). We can become unemployed (gov’t benefits) or we can outlive our income (retirement – you need retirement savings). You’ve got critical illness insurance, but you may be missing disability insurance. You personally are probably dependent on your own income – disability insurance ensures that if you become disabled you have a new paycheque. Not unlike the life insurance scenario we went through.

    Tips for Disability Insurance:
    – Benefit period: commonly 2 years, 5 years, to age 65. If you become disabled permanently, when do you want benefits to end? In 5 years? Better stick with age 65.
    – Cost of living increase – this is an inexpensive rider that ups your benefits about the same as inflation. No big deal if you’re disabled for the short term, a huge deal if you’re disabled for a long time. Get this rider, it’s inexpensive and important.
    – own occupation. Very basically most policies say that if you’re disabled for the first two years, they’ll pay. After two years they only pay if you’re disabled from ‘any occupation’. If you want to continue to receive benefits after two years if you’re disabled from just your own occupation, then you need this rider to extend that definition past two years.
    – elimination period, how long you need to be disabled prior to benefits starting – there’s all manner of these, and this isn’t a big insurance principle. I’ve found 90 days is a sweet spot in terms of pricing. Shorter period and it gets expensive fast, longer periods and it doesn’t get that much cheaper.
    – if you’ve got disability insurance at work, check the policy. Probably you only have benefits for 2 years. You think you’re covered, only to find out if you become disabled that the money shuts off after two years (got a policy at work? Go check it out tomorrow. ). There’s an easy solution – you can get an individual disability insurance policy with benefits to age 65 but with a 2 year elimination period. If you became disabled your work policy would cover you for the first two years then stop – but then your individual policy would start up and pay you to age 65.

  29. @ Liz -personally I think you’re getting shafted a bit on your 100K policy. Paying $720 a year for 100K coverage is highway robbery unless oyu have all sorts of medical conditions. Have you checked to see what a term policy (say 15 years) would be?

    @ Glenn – question – doesn’t all life insurance eventually end? Ie I know I will die one year. Ithought most policies ended around year 75? maybe im mistaken.

  30. Most term insurance policies will end about age 70-80. Permanent insurance, by it’s nature, does not end – you keep the coverage forever.

  31. @ Glen – so does that mean that they have a 100% payout history?

  32. […] Buying Life Insurance – Do's and Don'ts « gailvazoxlade.com Don’t buy less life insurance to make it cheaper! Instead, buy a policy with a shorter term. When people find premiums unaffordable the tendency is to buy less life insurance. The downside of approach is that if you die, … buying life insurance – Google Blog Search […]

  33. @ Liz

    Glenn has made some good points. You may be able to modify your current insurance without canceling it.

    Here is one idea, for the future.

    Insured Annuity

    A life income annuity (payable until death) is attractive because the insurance company has to pay for life, even if you live to 110. However if you die much earlier than you expect, the insurance company keeps all of the money. Rather than gamble with your family’s inheritance, consider purchasing an insured annuity. This is a 2 step process where the annuity is backed by a life insurance policy for the same amount. If you die early, the life insurance is paid to your beneficiary tax free.

    Back to Back Annuity (insured annuity)
    This example compares GIC vs a life annuity with a matching life insurance policy.

    Example:

    * Current GIC rate 3.25% (five year rate lock-in)
    * 65 year old male purchases $100,000 non-reg annuity and $100,000 life insurance policy
    * Tax bracket 31.41% ($40,970 up to $65,345) Ontario

    Insured annuity GIC
    Gross income $8,165.28 $3,250
    Taxes payable $742.90 $1,012.37
    Life insurance $3,240 $0
    Total net $4,182.38 $2,237.63

    After taxes are considered, a GIC of over 6% is needed to equal the annuity. At higher tax brackets, a GIC paying over 8% is needed! Also, under the annuity strategy, he pays less tax as he is showing less taxable income and is less susceptible to OAS claw backs and age amount (age 65) claw back. This could mean many hundreds or thousands of dollars saved every year.

    Currently interest rates are low, but because the way annuities are taxed, they will always pay a higher income than GIC’s at higher rates.

    Early Planning is Best

    To lower the insurance premium required to cover the annuity and to get an even higher rate of return, permanent insurance should be considered at a much earlier age (and better health) if cash flow permits. Or to give more options in retirement, such as selling the house in retirement and living off the capital. Insurance fills the hole after the money is spent.

  34. thanks for the advice , now I know what to do with my insurance plan

  35. I personally think that buying a Life Plan is very essential to everyone. You have pointed out all the necessary factors and risks to be noted when buying one. Thank you.

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